What to do if your clothing samples don’t turn out well.
If you’ve ever opened a sample package feeling excited, only to feel disappointed seconds later, you’re not alone. Poor clothing samples are one of the most common challenges fashion brands face, especially during early product development.
The important thing to know is this: bad samples don’t mean your design is bad. They usually mean something in the development process needs clarification, adjustment, or technical support.
This guide walks through what to do when your samples don’t turn out well, how to identify the real issue, and how to fix it without wasting time or money.
First, Don’t Panic — Bad Samples Are Normal
Even established brands rarely receive a perfect first sample. Sampling is a testing phase, not the finish line. A first sample is meant to reveal problems so they can be corrected before production. On average a new style will go through about 3 samples before it is perfect.
Instead of reacting emotionally, step back and evaluate the sample objectively. Ask yourself:
What exactly isn’t working?
Is the issue related to fit, pattern, construction, or materials?
Is this something that can be corrected in another sample round?
Treating samples as data — not failure — will help you move forward faster and with fewer mistakes.
Identify the Real Problem With Your Sample
When a sample doesn’t turn out well, the fastest way to fix it is to clearly identify what type of issue you’re dealing with. Vague feedback leads to repeated mistakes.
Common clothing sample issues include:
Fit issues
Garments that are too tight or too loose, incorrect proportions, poor armhole or rise fit, or imbalance on the body.
Pattern issues
Twisting seams, drag lines, asymmetry, or garments that don’t sit correctly when worn.
Construction issues
Incorrect stitch types, poor seam finishes, puckering, or low-quality workmanship.
Fabric issues
Incorrect fabric weight, stretch, drape, shrinkage, or fabric substitutions that change how the garment behaves.
Design interpretation issues
Details that don’t match your original design intent because they weren’t clearly communicated.
The more specific you can be, the easier it is to correct the issue.
Review Your Tech Pack
In many cases, poor samples are the result of unclear or incomplete tech packs. Factories can only produce what is documented, not what you imagined.
Review your tech pack carefully and ask:
Are all measurements clearly labeled and consistent?
Are construction details and stitch types specified?
Are fabrics, trims, and finishes clearly called out?
Did you assume the factory would make design decisions for you?
If something was vague, missing, or contradictory, the sample will reflect that.
Make Sure You’re Evaluating Fit Correctly
Sometimes a sample looks wrong simply because it’s being evaluated incorrectly.
Before making changes, confirm:
The sample is the correct base size
The fit model matches your target customer
You’re not judging grading issues from a single size
Fit problems should be assessed on the correct body, in the correct size, before revisions are made. You should also use the same size and body for every sample you create, so you can accurately see the revisions.
Give Clear, Actionable Feedback to the Factory
One of the biggest reasons samples don’t improve is unclear revision feedback.
Effective sample feedback should include:
Annotated photos showing problem areas
Updated measurement charts with exact changes
Clear written instructions (what to change and by how much)
Confirmation of what is approved and should remain the same
Avoid vague comments like “this feels off” or “the fit isn’t right.” Factories need precise direction to make accurate corrections. Instead saying “Move the shoulder seam forward 3/4” gives your manufacturer concrete revisions that insure you will get exactly what your looking for in the next round.
Know When the Factory May Not Be the Right Partner
Sometimes the issue isn’t your design or tech pack, it’s the factory.
Signs a factory may not be the right fit include:
The same mistakes repeating across multiple sample rounds
Feedback being ignored or misunderstood
Poor communication or long response times
Lack of experience with your product category
If issues persist despite clear instructions, switching factories may save money in the long run.
Consider Technical Help Before Resampling
Before paying for another round of samples, it’s often worth getting technical support.
A professional technical designer can:
Correct fit and pattern issues
Clean up and clarify tech packs
Identify production risks early
Reduce the number of sample rounds needed
Fixing problems before resampling is usually far more cost-effective than trial-and-error production. If you’re having a hard time being specific in your feedback, a professional can also help translate any vague revisions into actionable steps for your factory.
Final Thoughts
If your samples don’t turn out well, it doesn’t mean your collection is failing, it means the development process needs refinement. Most sampling issues are solvable with clearer documentation, better communication, and the right technical foundation.
Taking the time to diagnose the problem properly can save thousands in revisions and prevent costly production mistakes.
At Lilith Apparel, we help brands troubleshoot fit, pattern, and production issues so samples move forward with confidence instead of guesswork.
